Fendi Unveils 2026 Haute Couture: A Fluid Exploration of Desire in Fabric

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut Haute Couture collection for Fendi was presented in Rome at the National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art. The event not only showcased the garments but also served as an artistic exploration of desire interpreted through fabric. A short film initiated the show, leading into the collection anchored by a distinctive black and white striped chiffon tunic. This design drew inspiration from a photograph of Emilie Flöge, a renowned Austrian designer and muse of Gustav Klimt, featured prominently in the project’s mood board.

Artistry Rooted in Legacy

Chiuri’s collection extended beyond mere aesthetic considerations, intricately weaving in references to Karl Lagerfeld’s long-standing engagement with the Vienna Secessionist movement. By connecting current designs with historical narratives, Chiuri aimed to highlight the design language shared among the Fendi sisters and Lagerfeld through decades of collaboration. This connection is further evidenced by a concurrent exhibition at the National Gallery, focusing on Fendi and Lagerfeld’s collaborative works from 1985, organized by Chiuri and scheduled to run through late October.

The garments reflected a seamless flow and adaptability, characterized by tunics, kimono-inspired jackets, and gowns. This fluidity was a hallmark of the collection, encouraging wearers to embrace a versatile identity each day. While the menswear pieces maintained a more structured silhouette, Chiuri emphasized that even the sharper designs expressed comfort rather than constriction.

Delicate Contrast

A meticulously coordinated black-and-white color palette permeated the collection, providing a restrained backdrop for the exploration of fluid shapes and sensual elements. The garments featured sheer fabrics, strategic leather accents, deep necklines, and thigh-high slits. More intimate pieces, such as lingerie-inspired shorts, were elevated to formal evening attire, exemplifying a balance between subtlety and allure. Chiuri articulated a vision of desire that eschewed indecency, favoring curiosity over provocation.

Collaborative Craftsmanship

Creating the collection required the cooperation of Fendi’s diverse ateliers, specializing in fur, leather, and a range of fabrics. Chiuri noted that this collaboration marked a particularly rewarding aspect of her experience in haute couture, as the unique expertise of each department directly contributed to the silhouettes that graced the runway.

For more details on this collection and others from Fendi, follow Emirates Woman.